Colloidal Siver
Make Your Own...
Colloidal Silver Generator

Currently Preferred
Silver Colloid Making
Apparatus, Means, and Methods

Robert C. Beck

Reprinted from: Exotic Research Report (Volume 1, Issue 1; Jan/Feb/Mar 1996)
Manufacturing Methods
Ball Mill
Colloid Mill
Disk/China Mill
Aerodispersion Mill
Radiant Energy
Prolonged boiling in water
Mercury Vapor condensed on water
Chemical Action
Electrical Arcs
Cathode atomization
Vacuum evaporation
Based on evaluations of many different instruments and methods, this article describes what is easily the best performing, least expensive, simplest, and most convenient method for producing good quality silver colloids presently known. It has been fully tested and found to work much better than expensive, dangerous, and complex devices. However it does not work with metals such as gold.

This stand-alone appliance works all by itself and never requires high voltage, ignition coils, transformers, underwater sparking, or “plugging in”. It goes in your pocket and will work anywhere. It is essential for sterilizing local drinking water when travelling. It can generate excellent fine-grain silver colloids directly in any fluid containing water ranging from soup to champagne without diluting it. You can make any desired concentration (in parts per million) by electrolyzing for longer periods of time. There is no heat or waste and it cannot shock you.

Materials List
To easily and rapidly make unlimited quantities of good quality silver colloid concentrate for $0.001 per gallon (plus water costs) you’ll need:
  1. Three 9V-type MN1604 regular alkaline transistor radio batteries;
  2. Three battery snap-on lead connectors;
  3. Two insulated alligator clips;
  4. One grain-to-wheat 24V-40mA subminiature incandescent bulb;
  5. One foot of 3/32" heat shrink insulation tubing;
  6. Ten inch piece of pure silver wire,
  7. One foot of 2-conductor stranded, insulated, twisted-wire clip leads.

Use ONLY pure silver (.999 fine} electrodes. The preferred size is 014 gauge (AWG). Pure silver is sometimes available at electroplating supply companies, foundries precious metals dealers etc.

WARNING! Do not use Sterling silver (.9275 or other); Sterling contains copper and nickel. Nickel can be toxic. Sterling is sometimes passed off for electrodes with commercial colloid makers through ignorance or by entrepreneurs who are trying to cut comers and save money. Discard them.

Use only distilled water for ingestible and injectable colloid. Tap water is OK for most other uses.

This should cost a under maximum $20.00 for everything and take about 35 minutes to assemble from scratch. This design is “ idiot proof” and simple to use. It makes an odorless, tasteless, colorless, fast and powerful antiseptic and one of the most remarkable healing agents known. The entire colloid making process takes about five minutes per 8-oz batch for ~6 ppm laboratory tested concentration.

Assembly Instructions
  • Use the three snap-on connector clips for the batteries and solder them in series (red to black) to provide 27 volts.
  • Connect a 24V incandescent lamp in series with either (positive or negative) output load.
  • Solder a red insulated alligator clip to the positive (anode) and a black insulated clip to the negative (cathode) 2-conductor twisted wires.
  • Shrink insulation over soldered connections using a heat gun or hair dryer.
  • Bend top ends of silver electrode wires to clip over rim of plastic or glass container. Leave about 4 inches of bare electrodes submerged in the working solution (water). Spacing between electrodes is not critical.

The 24V 40mA miniature bulb acts as an ideal ballast, current drain indicator current limiter and battery condition check for the apparatus. I found aircraft grain-of-wheat lamps (Precision Lamp Inc. part #10238) in surplus for $0.50 each. You can momentarily short- circuit clip leads together without harm; the bulb will light brightly. The visual brightness while operating gives an accurate indication of water conductivity.

Operating Instructions
There is no on-off switch, so the process starts immediately when alligator clips are both attached to submerged wires. Process stops when either or both clips are disconnected. If bulb glows visibly proceed and let current flow for about five minutes then remove alligator clips stir and you're done!

If bulb doesn't light or you see only a faint reddish glow add sea-salt solution. Observe the smoke-like plumes of pure white ultra fine grain silver against a dark background as colloid electrolytically sinters off the anode (positive polarity side of battery red lead) and drifts into solution.

Five minutes activation of about 8-oz of property conductive water gives approximately 5 to 7 ppm (parts per million) strength. Yield depends on water conductivity, surface area of electrodes, amount of current and time. Approximately 5 minutes makes a stock solution which can be diluted further to make a typical working solution.

I occasionally put electrodes in my coffee, fruit and vegetable juice, tap water and other drinks to charge them with colloid directly. I even treated a mug of Anchor Steam Beer to see if it worked—it did, but it's best to charge water by itself and add it to other foods/fluids as desired or drink it directly. Overdosing with any amount is considered unlikely.

Sea Salt Solution Preparation
With distilled or de-ionized (high resistance) water you should stir in a very minute amount (1 or 2 drops) no more of dissolved sea salt preferably; Celtic Golden Marine (brand) available at health food stores. Do not use table salt since it contains additives like iodine, aluminum, or silica desiccators, etc.

Too much salt (3 drops) NaCl can produce unwanted silver chloride and give a dishwater appearance. Prepare a saturated solution of sea salt beforehand, filter and store inn a 1- or 2-oz brown drugstore eyedropper bottle (add a little colloid to your bottle to prevent bacteria growth).

Stir a drop of the salt solution into any high-resistance water. The bulb should show just a dim reddish glow. Salt must be added BEFORE making colloid.

Maintenance Instructions
Clean electrode wires after each use to remove the dark oxide. This occurs on the anode because the oxygen (produced electrolytically) oxidizes silver. Use a small piece of ¼-in thick nylon Scotchbright™ kitchen scouring pad to polish dried silver, then wipe with paper napkin to make ready for next use.

A fresh set of 3 alkaline batteries will make hundreds of 8-oz batches of five minute silver colloid before battery replacement becomes necessary. Periodically check batteries by momentarily short-circuiting tips of alligator clips together to observe whiteness and intensity of light. When bulb appears significantly dimmer or looks yellowish after time replace all three alkaline batteries. Pry snap connectors off tape 3 new cells together and replace snap-on dips. Be VERY careful not to crush or damage the fragile little lamp.

Checking Colloid Concentration and Purity
Colloid concentration and purity is readily checked by viewing the backscatter of a laser beam as it passes through your finished solution (Tyndall/Rayleigh effect). Use a 1 to 5 milliwatt laser diode pointer (630 to 670 nanometer wavelength) that makes a small spot at several feet—not just a light emitting diode.

Look into the beam at about a 15 degree angle. (Point beam through solution so spot hits your chin or lips. Never look directly at the source, this can injure your eyes.)

Laser pointers retail for about $30.00 at some computer or parts outlets such as Fry's Electronics. Surprisingly the inexpensive pointer from Radio Shack does not perform satisfactorily for this particular application—the other models (~$69) will.

Colloid Storage
Make and store only in electrically nonconductive containers such as dark brown glass or plastic such as prune juice bottles or hydrogen peroxide containers never in metal.

There is no need to stir during processing however stirring or shaking is essential before storing and each time before using. Filtering is generally unnecessary. Don’t add preservatives minerals EDTA, proteins, gelatin coloring (some makers add yellow dye to make it appear golden) or any other substance.

Stir your fresh batch with a plastic (nonconductive) fast-food disposable knife and store in a dark brown container. KEEP AWAY FROM LIGHT as even room light will degrade colloids rapidly by turning solution gray or black just as exposure to light darkens the silver in camera film. Light can also neutralize positive charges on silver ions that help keep particles in suspension. Keep colloids cool but do not refrigerate or let freeze.


Market Comparison
It purchased at market prices commercial colloids could cost up to $80.00 for 8 OZ of generally vastly inferior products. Most available colloids on today’s market when evaluated prove to be practically worthless. (At a recent health expo. In my opinion out of eight brands tested only two were found to be adequate in quality suspension and content. Many contained additives such as EDTA coloring and gelatin for suspension).

This article describes an easy way for anyone to make his own for only a small fraction of a penny. It seems ridiculous to buy it at high prices. You can now afford to use colloids universally such as in laundry water for sterilization as a disinfectant spray rinse for fruit and vegetables, fungicide, bactericide, plant spray, pet health assurance, and hundreds of other applications. Drinking dilute silver colloid safely kills over 650 pathogens, viruses, microbes, fungi, and parasites within minutes. Side effects are unknown and resistant strains of disease-causing pathogens never develop.

Multi-level entrepreneurs will believe that their colloid is “better, finer particle size, purer, longer suspension, more golden, made by some top secret proprietary process, or other rationalizations to justify outrageous prices. Just offer to test both at an independent laboratory. This do-it-yourself process makes a perfectly adequate colloid with a 2-year track record of excellent results.__BB

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